Chanel started making dresses in the mid-1910s, and photos survive showing extremely similar Chanel dresses to this example. This dress is made from a very heavy black grosgrain, a corded silk with a very pronounced rib (taffeta is at the other end of the scale), with black silk satin bands around the ends of the slightly flared sleeves,
and a black pleated satin sash with a long side streamer. Also a black satin "modesty wrap" inside the neckline. It has a black cotton inner bodice lining and is lined throughout with black cotton. A jet button is decoratively attached to the tab, but the dress fastens with large snap fasteners and hooks 'n eyes. The quality is very strong and well-made, and it has a brisk military
A practical and elegant First World War day dress of walking length, marking the end of the Edwardian era.